I cannot be sure what draws me to Jaipur like a moth to the flame. Is it the pink (my favourite colour) in the ‘pink city’, or the touch of royalty in every little thing, or maybe the air lingering with Rajput traditions and ways.

Hawa Mahal with its 953 jharokas  (Windows)

Each palace, structure, market more intriguing than the next, from step-wells to majestic forts you can spend weeks in this city getting lost and being transported to a time that Jaipur has definitely not forgotten.

My Jaipur guide is something you can do over a week or cram into 3-4 days, all depends on the pace you like to do things.

STAY

The options are endless from fancy Massive Palaces to heritage hotels and the standard hotel chains (who doesn’t like to collect them SPG points eh?)

Narain Niwas

Set on beautiful green grounds with a central heritage home. Quaint little rustic rooms, each other different with frescoes and colonial furniture. Peacocks run around all day adding to the charm of the place. It doesn’t hurt that some of the best curated shopping is also on the compound along with the most instagram-able Bar Palladio.

Bar Palladio at Narain Niwas

Be aware that some of the furniture and bathrooms fittings may be a tad rustic and possibly squeaky for some. The service is also super slow but the whole ambience makes it ok.

Rambaug Palace

Sigh this place makes me get goosebumps, if you have read Maharani Gayatri Devi’s ‘A princess Remembers’, you will agree. I stayed in the less luxurious, and comparatively more affordable Annexe rooms that a Jaipur based friend helped book. Peacocks wake you every morning while they freely roam the well-manicured lawns of Rambaug palace.

ITC Rajputana

For those SPG point collectors (Hi!!!) and if you want to save your money for shopping instead of splurging on fancy palace properties. The rooms are slightly dated but comfy.  The hotel and service is pretty good. ITC is located close to most of my shopping reccos. The food at the restaurant is excellent and the pool looked pretty enticing but who wants to spend any time in Jaipur by a pool?

EAT

Jaipur is all about the food. Grand Rajasthani thalis, daal baatis with a twist and some yum organic cafes, we got you covered.

Before I get started on the where, you need to know the what of Rajasthani food:

Introducing my friend Candy to the Rajasthani Thali at LMB

Rajasthani Thali : The thali or thaal is a large flat plate, usually made in metal commonly steel but in royal setting you may have the luxury of eating in silver and even gold. A lot of Indian states serve their own thaali with traditional dishes ranging from 6 dishes and in some elaborate thalis you can upto 25 things served up on your thaal. Rajasthani thaalis may be vegetarian or meat loaded and usually the highlight for me is the fried flat bread dipped in chickpea gravies and spicy regional vegetables.

Batti: fried dough balls, dipped in Ghee (clarified butter, maybe be plain, spiced or even stuffed with minced meat.)

Kachoris: Deep fried dough with a crisp outside and  hollow, which may be stuffed with spices, onions or not.

Laal Maas: The most incredible spicy, rich and life altering mutton curry.

Safed Maas: A white, cashew based milder version of the famed Mutton (goat ) curry in Rajasthan, preferable for the spice intolerant.

Street food in Jaipur at your own risk

Kher Sangri: a local sour vegetable found mostly in Rajasthan cooked in spices and absolutely spectacular .

Niro’s

Started in the 1940’s Niro’s is a favourite for both locals and visitors alike. A ‘safe’ spot to stuff your face with Rajasthani specialities like the Laal Maas (Red spicy Mutton), Kher Sangri and incredible butter naans/flat breads. Wash all the spice away with some Lassi served in disposable earthenware at the famous MI Road Lassiwala.

The famous Lassiwala at MI Road

Spice court

2 words: Kheema Batti (Mince meat stuffed deep fried dough balls) Yes Please!

Anokhi Café

For that mid shopping session where you need to eat light so you can actually do/see some stuff after instead of taking a siesta. Loads of healthy and organic options.

Verandah Cafe at Rambaugh palace

A picturesque setting for high tea.  Must do if you aren’t staying at one of the big palace hotels just to get a taste of the royal life. They also serve a beautiful and elaborate thali for dinner.

LMB

Laxmi Mishthan bhavan smack in the middle of Johari Bazaar (old market) has an air-conditioned restaurant that serves up a fabulous and elaborate vegetarian Royal Rajathani thaali, daal batti or for the small, not-so-adventurous eaters an a-la-carte menu. Finger licking good and washed down with some highly carbonated Thums up makes up my dream meal.

Kitchen at Jaipur Modern

Is an airy contemporary spot perfect for lunch when you need a break from Indian food. Jaipur Modern  curates some super cool clothes and jewellery by some very talented Indian designers.

Metanoia Café at Grand UNIARA

The super cute Metanoia cafe at Grand Uniara

Take a break from the spicy fanfare of Rajasthan and indulge in a freak shake or a relaxed cuppa in this adorable little café located at the Grand Uniara hotel, a heritage property which also has a beautiful terrace restaurant and beautiful kitschy rooms.

SHOP

Jaipur shopping is endless and sometimes super intimidating too.

Johari Bazaar is the oldest market of Jaipur. Johari meaning jewellery, expect to find endless lines of jewellers, fabric merchants, traditional shoes (juttis), Jaipuri razais or quilts. Retaining its original charm with the pink painted buildings and understated sign boards, this is a great place to just walk about even if shopping is not really your thing. Have a lemon soda at the famous soda street vendor and get clicking.

Silver trinkets and artifacts Just walk around the stores near LMB and there are soooo many options you can go nuts finding that perfect Indian Jhumka (bell shaped earring).

Brass and steel

Around the entrance gate of Hawa mahal is the ‘ Bartan Bazaar’ or Utensil market. The shops are treasure troves of things ranging from beaten copper vases to antique finds. It takes a lot of patience, tolerance to traffic honking and dust all over you now sweaty and grainy face, and a certain tact to find what you want and then bargain to get it to a price you are happy with.

My sister Namita, the Queen of spices ‘negotiating’ the price of an antique brass mortar and pestle at the old market

MI road is the modern-day shopper’s road filled with the usual commercial brands, my favourite stores here are:

Tholia’s Kuber for the most exquisite real jewellery. I was in love with every single piece of jewellery in this place.

Gorgeous and traditional earrings at Tholia’s Kuber (image from www.tholiaskuber.com)

Yash Tholia is in the same complex in the courtyard behind Tholia’s Kuber. Lovely Kurta’s and fabrics, he will custom make to your size whatever catches your eye and courier it to you

Allah Baksha and sons has whimsical collection of antiques, lamps and beautiful handicrafts.

Amrapali

Known for its jewellery all over the world has quite the cult following and clientele like Paris Hilton. They also supply jewellery for movies like Troy. They have Silver, semi-precious and precious jewellery fit for Royalty. The prices are pretty royal too, but worth the investment. Especially nice for its gold-plated silver collection which is great as travel jewellery and destination weddings.

Civil lines area shopping

Ratans textiles is one of those places that even the locals shop at. Their textiles, Jaipuri quilts are high quality. Recently they have even upped their designing to include a larger variety of Jaipuri hand blocked prints.

Traditional Jaipur block printing uses hand carved wooden blocks to create gorgeous and intricate prints.  My favourite block printed clothes are from www.thejodilife.com

Suvasa is another cool store similar to Ratans, I love their colourful stuffed parrots as baby presents.

Anokhi is a great Jaipur concept store with hand crafted fabric, quilts, dressing gowns, clothes, cushion covers, jewellery, curtains and the works. The quality is excellent and it is one of those places you can buy beautiful presents for people back home like their quilted duffels and pouches in the most gorgeous prints.

Fab India

From hand crafted solid wood furniture to throws, cushion covers, stoles, jewellery, kitchen ware, ceramics and a huge variety of organic spices, pulses and bath stuff if you haven’t ever been to a Fab India it is about time you do. It is pretty darn fabulous.

The shops at Narayan Niwas

Peacocks casually hanging around Narain Niwas and so should you!

Anantaya Lamps, spoons, stoles, cool jewellery and many amazing presents.

Andraab also known as the Heavenly shawl place. Have a big break-the-bank budget for a lush take-you-to-heaven shawl? This is where you will find that super authentic Kashmiri shawl.

Hot Pink

A very cool concept store with all things modern and Indian, rugs, clothes and very cool shirts for men.

Totally out the way but worth it is Teatro Daro. Curated slow fashion Indian designers, up-cycled fashion and pricey but totally quirky and eclectic things to be found here.

Traditional Embellished clothes

Zari and Vasansi are popular spots to buy Indian wedding wear, embellished kurtas and sarees.

Blue pottery Art Centre

Blue Pottery Art Centre

On the way to Amber fort , a few floors of pottery, from tea light holders to bathrooms sets, take some time to dig out some gorgeous pieces by this man who has aced in this dying art. Address: Near Jain Mandir, Amer Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302002

SEE

Amber fort and pigeons (for real pigeons, not photoshopped)

Amber fort

So this is where the royal wives hung out waiting for their BAEs

I have been here 3 times. I love love love Amber fort. Please drive up or walk and do NOT use the elephants. This stunning sandstone structure that was built for Mann Singh and his many wives. The remnants of advanced plumbing system, baths, fountains and gardens allow you to step into a regal era. Look out for intricate carvings, incredible Sheesh Mahal and little pervi miniature paintings (you have to ask your guide or you won’t see them). Don’t forget to ask for the “special prasad” at the Devi temple for a shot of essentially what is a long island iced tea minus the ice.

Must see:

GALLERY ARTCHILL The art gallery at Amber fort curated by Sangeeta Juneja.I have personally bought art from here by upcoming and prominent Indian artists and everything comes with authenticity certificates.

The gorgeous Ganesh pol at Amber fort

Panna Meen ka Kund

This is one of those places that I never knew existed until Instagram happened and man am I glad to have found it. I am pretty step well obsessed and the symmetry of the stairs here is fabulous. Unfortunately, due to safety reasons you can no longer go down the stairs to take those crazy photos but we managed to go down a few steps. I can imagine that if the place is crowded you would want to be safe.

Panna Meena ka Kund.. so dreamy

Anokhi museum

A beautiful heritage building with the history of Jaipur arts, hand blocking and demonstration of hand blocking and many other cutesy discoveries in this museum.

Hawa Mahal

Princess vibes at Hawa Mahal.. but where is the parade?

If you are pressed for time and can’t do the forts this gives you a fun 40-minute activity. Essentially a massive ‘parda’ or partition for royal women to watch the processions, this structure is made of an incredible number of windows and wind blowing through gives it an air conditioned effect which is how it got its name Hawa meaning wind.

Walk around or drive around the city

Jaipur is pretty safe to just walk about and explore. Look for gorgeous corners in this beautiful pink city.

Pink walls everywhere in the Pink city

General Considerations

Currency

Indian rupees: Carry cash for guides, markets, handicrafts and roadside food.

All larger stores, restaurants and hotels do accept cards.

Safety

Jaipur is pretty safe. Petty theft / pick pocketing in crowded markets is always a possibility so leave your passports and wads of cash in the hotel locker.

Drive around for lit up structures at night like the Hawa mahal (pic courtesy Dr Harshul Tak)

Getting around

If like me you like to cram in a dozen things a day, hire a car and driver from your hotel or Uber here is very efficient too.

Stay away from public transport unless you like adventure and being squished by sweaty bodies.

Driving about we spotted Jal Mahal

Tips

At the old markets Bargaining is a must, I personally suck at it and always over pay.

Dressing up in India

I am definitely going to do a whole write up on this soon. Cover up! This doesn’t mean you have to be in a Burkha. You do not need a head scarf.  It just means no tiny shorts, low neck lines and midriff show. The smaller cities in India, tourist places and markets are full of many many many men and also women who are enamoured by ‘different looking people’, even though I am Indian I get stared at.

Women: You will get stared at, all the time. This is the culture so please be comfortable in whatever you wear. Choose pants and tops, dresses below the knee, sleeveless is okay. Wear comfortable sandals or walking shoes. For the forts, carry a hat as the sun is strong.

Men: No one cares about what you wear here, but you will get stared at too. Sorry.

Sunshine and shadow play in my favourite Indian city Jaipur