If there was ever a place so mystical, regal and full of stories that could take you back to the magical, grand and sometimes unbelievable lives of royalty, this is it.

For any girl, an obsession with palaces and princesses is undeniable. My obsession with palaces, the Mughals and the romanticism around their lives is still constantly fed by visits to cities like Udaipur with its palaces, miniature paintings and folklore.

Udaipur had always been on top of my list but inspite of being relatively close it always felt oceans away.

As luck would have it, for my parents big ruby anniversary, their amazing kids (including me of course) decided to take them for a celebratory trip to Udaipur.

Last minute planning in the monsoon narrowed our options down to the holy trinity of Udaipur hotels on the lake; The Leela Lake Palace Kempinski, Taj Lake Palace and The Oberoi Udaivilas.

Going over all the deals and offers the monsoon season bring, we decided to go with the newest one, The Leela Palace Udaipur. This is not originally a palace or heritage hotel unlike the Taj Lake Palace but has been built to feel like one.

After landing into the Udaipur airport, a short horn filled, jerky drive and a super chatty driver, brought us to a private lakeside pier. Warm smiles welcomed us onto a beautiful boat as we started our glide across the magnificent Lake Pichola. The lake is surrounded by historical structures with Mughal architecture. The glistening waters reflect these structures while constantly breaking into ripples by swooping birds and the little boats on the lake. This painting like scene is one that no photographs can do justice to. Even the 6000 odd shots of an amateur photographer (me) barely managed to get a few that feebly captured the moment.

As we approached a stunning white structure and pier at The Leela Palace, we saw a large turbaned man holding a velvety vermillion umbrella, with his large handle bar moustache and contagious smile. As we walked into the foyer traditionally clad singers and musicians performed folk songs as rose petals were showered over us. No matter where you go in the world Indian hospitality is impossible to beat!

The Lake view rooms in the Palace wing on the top floor had a panoramic view of Lake Pichola. If there were ever a hotel room you never had to leave, this would be it.

Large spacious rooms, with Jaali balconies, and top service… every hotel-ophiles dream come true.

The pool with the black and white marble floor work and the surrounding pomegranate gardens provided a foreground to our spectacular lake view. The pool, views, charming old temple, elaborately tented Espa spa and incredible collection of art can keep you quite busy for days and it is easy to forget that it isn’t a real palace.

It was tough to self motivate and leave the hotel, but don’t let anyone fool you and make you think that the lake and hotels are all Udaipur has to offer.

SEE

Lake Pichola is a wonder in itself, all hotels offer a boat trip around the lake where surrounded by the misty Aravallis with their endless jagged peaks you may just be transported to another era. If you are celebrating a special occasion the hotel (Leela) may host a fabulous and generous high tea as you float along the waters watching City palace and beautiful heritage buildings go by, allowing you to channel your inner princess (and poser).

With the sun setting over the misty lake, the purple skies and lit up palaces, this was my absolute favourite time to float over this beauty of a manmade water body.

Do not worry if you did not book one of the Lake hotels. You can take a boat from the City palace to visit the Jag Mandir restaurant in the centre of the lake. Once known as the pleasure island where the kings brought their queen/s or erm.. lets just say romantic interests for well… pleasure.

Monsoon palace is a 30-40 minute drive winding up through a National park to the top for a spectacular view of the lakes and city of Udaipur.

Do not expect a lot and you will not be disappointed, the crumbling walls and smelly surrounding remind you of the fact that it is a forgotten part of a once regal time. Plan to visit on a clear day and make sure to go before 5:30pm as the gates close at 6pm, keep your eyes peeled for the occasional leopard that we heard many see crossing the road. Sadly, we had no such luck.

City palace

This marvel was built on a mountain and dates back to the 1500s, built by and still owned by the longest running living dynasty. (this is guide given info, I have no guarantee that this is true and Indian guides can have quite the imagination.) The architecture inside has intricate marble inlay work, art, miniature paintings and beautiful pools and courtyards, giving you a glimpse of the fabulous life the royals once lived.

Strategically built with right-angled passages, staircases with low beams to slow down any potential attackers, this palace has some of the prettiest rooms I have ever seen. The Instagram famed blue room is one such room.

The adjacent complex still has the residing royal family and also the marvelous Crystal Museum with stories and artifacts of its own.

Also in this complex, is the Fatehprakash Palace Hotel, which is another fabulous heritage hotel on the lake. The shopping area around the central courtyard also homes some of the best stores in Udaipur. (see shopping)

The Old City Market…. Intense…..in one word.

Like any old market in any Indian city you can find everything from kitchen utensils to painting and art, leather goods, clothes and little knick knacks. Shopping here is not the main attraction; it is more for the experience.

Our hotel organized a rickshaw ride through and it was really exhilarating but watch out for the dust and traffic and deafening honking.

We hired a guide to walk us around City palace, the old market and to the other shops on my list. Manjeet (our guide) was happy to accompany us shopping, helped getting us discounts, was in no hurry, and is knowledgeable and passionate about his job. He was also great with my 4-year-old nephew and kept him entertained while us women shopped our hearts out, baby sitting is quite a valuable skill to have no?

Manjeet +919549250048

EAT

You must know that in any city with a royal heritage, food is the ultimate experience, also understand that no meal should be planned at the start of any day itinerary, as food comas and post meal siestas are imperative after a rich traditional Rajasthani affair.

Street food

Street food such as chaat, roasted corn on the cob can be found anywhere in and around the many lakes, specially Fateh Sagar lakeside (yes there are more lakes, 6 more to be exact). This area turns into a mad eat street in the evenings, exploding with thousands (yes!!!) of eating options, eat here at your own risk and let that antibiotic in your travel pouch boost your confidence.

Luxury dining

Sheesh Mahal,

The ambience is pretty darn stunning, accompanied by live music (which I thought was annoying .. ) that may not be to everyones liking, but the over all the experience here was great. Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace) does not have any mirrors it has instead Lake Pichola that reflects all the beautiful palaces and their lit up facades on its surface.

The restaurant right next door too at the Leela was fabulous, special shout out to the Ker Sangri (local greens), Laal maas (red mutton curry) and the fresh Bajra roti (pearl millet flat bread) with jaggery and Ghee that the lady made fresh over a traditional fire right in front of you.

Lunch / dinner

Ambrai is a really popular spot for lunch and dinner. Situated in the Heritage hotel of Amet haveli, it is always over flowing with customers. Serving traditional Rajput food, a great spot on the lake for a really tasty meal without all the fuss and luxury hotel prices. Call ahead for reservations or be prepared to wait a while. The Govind Gatta ka Saag (gramflour dumpling), Papad Methi ki sabzi and the Dhungaar Maas (mutton) were absolutely stand out dishes and so traditional that you rarely find this anywhere else.

Sunset Palace at the city palace complex has quite a fabulous panoramic view of the Lake. They serve continental and North indian cusisine, no Rajasthani food over here, so do not be disappointed. The food was pretty good though and a break from the rich gravies with a Battered fish and chips can’t ever be a bad idea. It is open for lunch you can take a break after the long walk and tour around city palace and go back for some shopping with happy bellies.

SHOPPING

From local handicrafts to precious jewellery there is a lot to be seen and bought.

Anokhi

This brand from Jaipur has the most subtle and beautiful block prints on cotton, kurtas, Rajais(blankets), pyjamas, quilted duffles and what not. A great souvenir to take home that you can actually use. Situated in the courtyard of the City palace area opposite the large gates. http://www.anokhi.com/

Aashka

Aashka by Princess Bhargavi of Udaipur, is situated right beside Anokhi. My first discovery of her store was in Jaipur and it is hard not to love everything in the store. Amazing dohar(thin quilt) prints, by far the best ever that I have seen, kurtis, jackets, handbags and Indian jewellery along with handcrafts carefully curated for the modern home.

Gem Arts Emporium

This shop is a maze of jewellery and silver art pieces. The owner Mr. Dhaddha and his son Salil Dhaddha clearly know what they are doing. From stand out jadau to victorian danglers, their precious jewellery collection has something for everyone. Be prepared to shell out some big bucks though. Their silver foiled wooden handicrafts and especially the little elephants would make a really amazing but expensive present. 119, Saheli Marg, Udaipur

Silver Art Palace

This store had more silver in one store than I had ever seen and it was a bit overwhelming but their mother of pearl inlay chairs and dressers were pretty stunning.  Opposite Sahelion ki bari, 8,New Fatehpura, Mewar art wali gali, Udaipur

Royal Arts and crafts

Shopping for antiques? This is where you need to go, rocking chairs, dressers, cupboards, brass boxes and loads of new stuff too. Endless rooms in rooms in rooms can make you feel a bit dizzy but they really had an endless amount of stuff and I came out wanting half the store.  42, Devali, Fatehsagar Lake, Udaipur

Shreenath Silver And Arts

After an exhausting day hunting down a Pichhwai that my Mom actually liked, (she is a picky shopaholic and I think this is a genetic thing) we luckily found this store. Pichhwais are the traditional painting of Shreenathji (Lord Krishna – Hindu god) that are hung behind the idols and depict different stories. They also make for beautiful works of art. Making a wave in the international art scene as well if you find a pichwai you fall in love with, and you will, this is where you should buy it.

Mr Vinay Gurani was well versed with Pichhwais and Udaipur art and helped us pick from the massive collection he had, each was better than the next.

I finally got my miniature replica painting of the ‘pleasure island’ I had been obsessing over ever since I had seen it at the city palace.  City Palace Road, Udaipur. +919928087290 Mr. Gurnani

Explore the little shops around the Jagdish mandir.

Stuff that was on my list but I never got there, but I believe it is always nice to leave something so you can go back.

• Coffee shops around the lake like Jheel’s ginger coffee bar and bakery, and Udai art café
• Upré restaurant at Lake Pichola hotel
• The vintage car museum
• Bara bazaar around the clock tower for silver jewellery
• Art shopping at Beyond square and Bougainvillea

TIPS

When to go?  July- August season has deals at these otherwise super luxury hotels. Weather was fabulous and pleasant and rain showers were occasional. The fact that there are no ongoing weddings killing the serenity also helps.

What to wear?

If you do not plan to go out of your hotel then whatever works for you.

In the city cover up, be respectful and expect some staring. You don’t have to be in a head to toe traditional outfit but avoid tiny shorts, skirts.

Getting around

Hire a car or rickshaw with a reliable driver or guide to get you around. Avis has a good reasonable service if booked prior.

Bring your sunscreen and sunglasses and just immerse yourself in this mystical city of lakes.